A Pig Eats in NOLA (pt.2)

Like I said, our trip was mostly aimed at warmth and eating. So while it was blissfully warm out, it also happened to be incredibly humid. (Which despite my skin and makeup looking phenomenal for the first time since Hawaii, my hair ended up being a legitimate knot.) Whatever though. I like to think I rocked some sort of Blake Lively messy side-braid and most of my pictures don't have closeups so it looks cool from far away. #lifehack

The food was fantastic. We ate at some chains but this will be the first time in ages I withheld judgement. Good food is good food and the fresh seafood was impossible to beat. When you live in the Midwest, you are naturally suspicious of all seafood and seafood bearing restaurants. Fresh? Just flown in? What, do you FedEx it overnight with my Amazon order? Everyday??? Is that why this meal costs exactly my rent and cell phone bill combined? 

In any case, read on if you're on a diet or not hungry and are a masochist.

Oysters. Oysters are everywhere. If you're a texture person, I beg you to make your first time trying Oysters somewhere off of a coast. They are velvety, smooth (not chewy) and just a little bit briney. Not much, but just barely enough to make you want one more to try and catch that drop of the ocean to savor one more time.

Oh, so you like garlic and butter and some spicy seasoning that I can't quite identify as cajun or creole, breadcrumbs, parmesan, and epic amounts of sodium? Why, yes, I do, too. Charbroiled oysters are where it's at. This was our first meal in NOLA and it set us up for an addiction to the shelled delights that I can't quite shake. 

We were under the impression and unfortunate assumption that Crawfish/Seafood Boils would be a big thing in Louisiana,  so we fruitlessly searched and asked around to no avail. We did, however, find a fun tourist spot to sit down and engage in the delicate act of eating crawfish. 

By delicate, I mean not at all, because you man-handle this crustacean accepting that you will, in fact, end up with shells in your hair and lemon juice in your eye. It's not a sexy meal to watch someone eat but the reward is sweet, indeed. 

I'd only ever had crawfish in buffets before but those will never compare. They literally pale in comparison to these delights and although I wither at the whole animal concept when it's presented to me to take into hand (literally) if I want to eat, these were the tasty morsels to convince me that it is oh, SO worth it.

A favorite food of mine has made a monster out of me. Fried chicken. I don't know what it is, but I have a serious affection for good and thoughtful fried chicken. I recently tried that chain stuff and was legitimately sick for a day after eating it. Manfriend and I have put it on our 'banned list' unless we're having a biscuit and honey packet shortage that we just can't overcome.

Anyway, Fiorella's on the edge of the Quarter is a little den of heaven. Seafood, although delicious can feel insubstantial and sometimes you just want to be full.  This fried chicken, although different in texture and flavor was crispy and all the right kinds of juicy.  The breading was just heavy enough where it wouldn't peel away from the meat leaving you with the fake battle we all wage of "Should I eat the best part of this fried chicken or pretend like I'm in it for the meat...?", where you inevitably lose and make some excuse about hungry children in Africa or whatever.

A shining star that I can't get over is the Red Beans and Rice-- the side that came without flourish to our chicken. What the what? How have I been missing this important line of Sir Mix-a-lot's greatest hit and the South's staple? Nobody told me it would be this good. I mean, there's bacon in it. Or some kind of bacony bit. I don't even need to know but I will dream of this meal for years to come and I will make many attempts on red beans and rice in the interim.

Mint Juleps When in the south, you should be required to drink Mint Juleps. In New Orleans in particular, people are partial to the Sazerac. It's not my cup of tea but it's bold if you like sweet citrus flavors with hints of Absinthe. I personally loved the Gin Fizz I had at the Roosevelt Hotel. The bartender was absolutely artistic in how he made this cocktail and it was worth the hype. Whoever invented that little diddy back in the 30's gets my personal thanks and a high-five.

The local beer was good although I can't say I had much of it. Beer gets me full and full means less room for food. So, there's that.



Merchant
Our hotel was next to this adorable restaurant, Merchant. Aside from everyone inside being insanely friendly, the food was phenomenal. Originally we went in just to get grub and go but chatting with the staff, and who I think was the owner of tags and our epic search of a seafood boil left us laughing and too entertained to leave. Off the beaten path, this place is adorable and won't smell like tourist (i.e. me). Sure to become a staple for the city, based on staff alone but don't worry the crepes (arugula, proscuitto and balsamic) are a definite given to winning you over.

We had crepes at Cafe du Monde and Cafe Beignet, and I won't write about them because the lines speak for themselves. Just go. Go often. Bring something to do while you wait, because there's always a line, but do not mistake this for a tourism trap-- it's loyalty and worthiness leaking out of glorious tiny balls of dough. So just go.

The capstone to our trip was our grand finale dinner. We sought far and wide for a seafood boil and despite not having experienced one first-hand, this made up for it.

Turtle Soup
Yes. It's exactly what it sounds like and I haven't been able to look at the turtle emoji since. Why I feel so much guilt, I don't know because I probably eat foods that people's Grandma's used to keep as pets, too. But with some encouragement, I pressed past my memories to dive in. The stew is a dark and brooding mixture-- undercurrents of heat swam in each bite but not enough to actually burn you-- just enough to keep you waiting for the bite so you continue to eat until you realize that the low and fleeting warmth it all you'll get. The texture of the turtle was similar to a small, cooked oyster. This particular version at Tableau wasn't so well done that I'd write home about it, but for the sake of trying it, I did, and I didn't hate it. If someone tells me there is a place with the most amazing turtle soup in the world, I will go and try it again with my head held high and full of expectation.

Frissee
What is more French than Beignets and Frissee? Not much, and I was most certainly elated to try this dish. The sun was setting and I was buzzed from my French 75, so upon finishing my bout with guilt and turtle soup, I devoured this salad. With all intents to order an entree, I was stuffed and pleased that I had to force myself to order dessert. Don't be fooled by the playful greens-- the potatoes are substantial and covered in a clarified butter that counteracts the vinaigrette, and you won't have enough time to breathe between bites leaving you full and content.

We had some butterscotch pudding to finish and there was no time for photos. You'll just have to go down to New Orleans and check out these spots yourself. But not alone. Because I'll go with you.

My heart goes out to you New Orleans for opening up a world of flavor and a dimension of eating I'll never forget!

xoxo